The Gold Mine of Indian Hair: From Street Pickers to Global Wig Market

India's hair collection industry, primarily focused on non-Remy and Remy hair, is experiencing a significant shift as demand for wigs grows both domestically and internationally. While hair collectors earn meager wages, the global market continues to thrive, calling for innovation and investment to transform India's position in the wig manufacturing landscape.

In Mumbai, Zeeshan Ali, a drag artist of a decade, showcases 45 wigs that define his identity on stage. "It’s an alter of identity, helping me transition from my everyday self into exaggerated, glamorous or whimsical characters," he shares, emphasizing the empowerment a perfect wig brings. However, he recalls the challenges of sourcing wigs in India's nascent market, where he once relied on wool and fabric to create his looks.

Today, the landscape has transformed. Wigs have become a popular fashion choice not just for theatrical performers but also for straight women seeking a change in appearance. India, known for being the largest exporter of human hair globally, supplies around 85% of the demand. Individuals like Kolachi Venkatesh have dedicated their lives to collecting hair, starting from humble beginnings as a "picker." "Hair is often thrown away but it’s gold," says Venkatesh, who has been in the business for 20 years. Despite the growth of a billion-dollar wig market, collectors earn between 59 cents to $6 a day, often below minimum wage in rural areas, due to price control from intermediaries.

While much of the hair collected in India is sent to China for manufacturing, Indian industry experts recognize the potential for expanding wig production domestically. "China has a sophisticated industry worth billions, while India must improve its value addition," explains Benjamin Cherian from Plexconcil. He urges the Indian government to invest in automated sorting systems and innovative manufacturing techniques to elevate the local market.

One company leading the charge in this direction is Delhi's Diva Divine Hair, co-founded by Nidhi Tiwari in 2009. As the demand for hair solutions grows, Tiwari's company aims to bridge the gap in the industry, highlighting a shift in societal norms that have allowed for open discussions about wigs. Innovations in wig technology—such as 3D printing and improved materials—are making these products more appealing and comfortable.

At the premium end, Temple or Remy hair, sourced from religious ceremonies in southern India, commands high prices due to its quality. Companies like Raj Hair International are at the forefront of this segment, implementing advanced sorting and processing techniques while minimizing waste. George Cherion, CEO of Raj Hair, notes that demand for Indian hair is "skyrocketing" due to its natural look and quality.

As Zeeshan Ali looks toward the future, he hopes for more accessible Indian wigs, noting the need for designs that create a "wow factor" for consumers. The evolving dynamics of India's hair industry not only reflect changing consumer preferences but also indicate a broader potential for economic growth within this unique sector.