Renowned mountaineer Nirmal Purja, 43, fell victim to an avalanche on Pakistan’s Broad Peak on 1 August 2026. Elite Expeditions confirmed his death, describing it with profound sadness and immense heartbreak, and noted that ten people were killed in the incident.
Purja, born in Nepal and a former British army officer, gained worldwide notoriety for summiting every eight‑thousand‑meter peak in 189 days in 2019, a record that altered mountaineering history.
Pakistani officials had earlier recovered the bodies of three climbers, American Mallory Geis, Omani Nadhira Ahmed Abdullah Al Harthy, and Nepali Pur Bahadur Gurung, all part of Purja’s expedition.
The Nepalese Prime Minister stated that the tragic loss of six Nepalese and four foreign climbers, including Purja, shocked the nation and emphasised their inspiring legacy.
Purja’s brother, Kamal, expressed deep grief and pride, confirming that the climber was no longer alive. British Defence Secretary Wes Streeting also remarked on the inspirational nature of Purja’s life and career, noting his service in the armed forces.
An Alpine Club of Pakistan spokeswoman confirmed that rescues had seen bodies but not yet recovered them, and she hinted at fear that everyone might have perished. Teams continue to search the summit region for the climbers involved in the avalanche.
Purja had been attempting Broad Peak as part of a bid to finish a first‑to‑climb‑all‑14‑eight‑thousand‑mountains‑exact‑ly‑once record, a serious ambition that had not been planned. The Broad Peak region is notoriously dangerous, with dozens of fatalities recorded since the first successful ascent in 1957.
