It is just past noon at the crescent-shaped Palolem beach on the southern tip of Goa's long, sandy coastline. The sun is blinding hot, but that has not deterred the tourist hordes from splashing about in the ocean.
The beachside shacks and cheap backpacker hotels hugging the bay in the state often dubbed India's party capital are full with tourists.
What's different here from some years ago, though, is that the Europeans and Russians who once thronged Palolem and other beach villages of Goa are missing.
The crowd is almost all local, a reflection of the diminishing appeal of this tiny coastal state among foreign tourists.
Numbers released by Goa's tourism department underscore these trends. Nearly 900,000 foreigners visited the state in 2017. By 2025, the number had fallen to around half a million. Conversely, the number of domestic tourists has grown from 6.8 million in 2016 to more than 10 million last year.
The state's tourism department recently stated that the global geopolitical situation has been affecting overseas flows. Rohan Khaunte, Goa's tourism minister, highlighted the need to remain both pessimistic and optimistic while planning ahead.
However, the decline in numbers predates the recent conflicts, raising questions about why foreign visitors, who've favored this relaxed budget getaway since the hippie heyday of the 1960s and 1970s, are now turning away.
Factors such as high travel costs, cumbersome visa processes, and competition from affordable alternatives like Sri Lanka and Vietnam have contributed to this decline. A ballet dancer from Russia, Sophie, expressed that many of her friends are choosing Turkey or Egypt over Goa due to proximity and cost.
Declining visitor numbers have also been attributed to the high costs of flights post-COVID-19, particularly due to the war in Ukraine and escalating tensions in the Middle East. Higher prices and lack of direct flights add to the disincentive for foreign travelers.
Local tourism officials acknowledge that Goa needs to work harder to regain its lost popularity among foreign tourists. Initiatives including road shows to attract visitors from Poland and Scandinavia are underway, while efforts are made to target markets beyond Europe.
The future of Goa's tourism economy hinges on its ability to adapt to the changing landscape, balancing local and international visitor needs while maintaining the charm that has historically made it a beloved destination.
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